How to Hike Peru’s Inca Trail

Machu Picchu, in all its glory
Peru’s world famous Inca Trail annually draws thousands of curious hikers looking to retrace the steps of ancient civilizations. I was one of them. Huffing and puffing, I sweat my way to the top of the famous ruins of Machu Picchu.
The journey along the Inca Trail was awesome but it ain’t easy. It was a four-day, 25-odd km hike that wound along a schizophrenic terrain: sheer cliffs, misty cloud forests, lush jungles and nose-bleed-causing mountain peaks. The scenery was stunning, the ruins historic but the actual hike… well… it was a real workout.
Armed with a bamboo walking stick, I slowly climbed steep mountain faces that can reach altitudes of up to 4200m. Glutes burning, I took frequent breaks, stopping to join clusters of out-of-breath backpackers collapsed along the trail’s sidelines. Beaten by Mother Earth’s natural StairMaster, the only relief was guzzling water and scarfing down Snickers bars for a quick energy boost.
Roger Salas, a certified guide who has hiked the trail over a hundred times, explained that hike difficulty depends on a number of factors: your prior hiking experience, the amount of weight carried on your back and your overall ability to acclimatize to the altitude.
“You never know how your body is going to react in this kind of altitude,” Roger warned. “Some people get sick, so it’s best to take it slow, spend a few days before the hike getting use to the altitude, so your body can adjust.”
For hiking inspiration, I looked to the porters. Part mules, part super-humans, these amazing and painfully underpaid Peruvian porters are hired to carry all camping equipment, prepare the tents and cook. Hunched-over, a junk pile of camping goods tied to their backs, porters scurry along the trail with incredible speed. Despite worn-out rubber sandals and huge weight strapped to their bodies, porters can take down even the most athletic of trekkers.
Once at camp, after a long day of hiking, the weary trekker will be rewarded with a plentiful spread of tasty treats and loose-leaf cocoa tea, a drink that helps with acclimatization. It’s a long hardy four days, but, reaching majestic Machu Picchu at daybreak (as mist creeps over the ancient ruins and there’s not a fanny-pack-wearing-tourist in sight) is certainly worth the hike!
For those planning a trip to Machu Picchu, here are a few things you’ll need:
- Quick-dry t-shirts, hiking boots, extra shoes, lots of socks, a flashlight and a fleece for those cold early mornings.
- Charged camera batteries. Don’t forget that there is no electricity along the trail
- Money. Even in the wilderness, consumerism finds a way. Bring cash for the necessities: Tips (my guide suggested that we pay $20 per porter, $30 for the head chef and $35 for the guide), an extra porter to carry your personal belongings for the day ($15) and a well-deserved cold Cuscena beer ($2).
- Passport. You must present your passport at entry and exit checkpoints along the trail. Use a Ziplock bag to protect valuable documents from moisture.
- Toilet paper. The outhouses are notoriously nasty.
- Water: Bring your own one liter bottle of water for the first full day of the trek. For the subsequent days, water will be boiled and the bottles refilled by the porters.
- Walking stick. This thin bamboo shoot (sold for $1 at the trail base) helps take the pressure off your knees as you descend thousands of steep steps.
A Few More Tips:
Since independent camping along the Inca Trail isn’t allowed, travelers must book a tour with a certified agency. There are many local tour operators located in the quaint city of Cuzco. An all-inclusive four-day group treks generally includes: transportation to and from Cuzco, trail fees, camping equipment (tent and sleeping mat), porter services, food and a guided tour of Machu Picchu. Be sure to choose a responsible tour operator. Incatrailperu.com warns that, “if you pay under US$350 for a 4 day group Inca Trail trek it is very unlikely that porter welfare is high on the company’s concerns. When you book with a company let them know that the treatment the porters receive is important to you.”
Sleeping bags, backpacks, ponchos and other camping gear can be rented for only a few dollars a day near the Plaza De Armas in Cuzco.
Book your trip early! The best but busiest time to hike the Inca Trail is during high season (April-October), when the weather is dry. The trail is closed the month of February for renovations. If the Inca Trail is fully booked or if you crave off-the-beaten-track exploration, there are alternative trails in the area that can be hiked independently. For more information, check out http://www.incatrailperu.com/
Do you have any hiking tips you’d like to share? Any peaks you’re dying to climb? Please leave your comments below…
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